Chapter 49 of 93

on one side only: 3. That a single question took up

on one side only: 3. That a single question took up

May1764

PREACHES ON CALTON HILL

In the evening I preached at Musselborough; and the next, on the Calton Hill at Edinburgh.

It being the time of the General Assembly, many of the Ministers were there.

The wind was high and sharp, and blew away a few delicate ones.

But most of the congregation did not stir till I had concluded.

Sun. 27.—At seven I preached in the High School yard, on the other side of the city.

The morning was extremely cold.

In the evening it blew a storm.

However, having appointed to be on the Calton Hill, I began there, to an huge congregation.

At first, the wind was a little troublesome; but I soon forgot it.

And so did the people for an hour and a half, in which I fully delivered my own soul.

Wesley at the General Assembly Mon.

28.—I spent some hours at the General Assembly, composed of about an hundred and fifty ministers.

I was surprised to find 1. That any one was admitted, even lads, twelve or fourteen years old:

2. That the chief speakers were lawyers, six or seven on one side only: 3. That a single question took up the whole time, which, when I went away, seemed to be as far froma conclusion as ever, namely, ' Shall Mr.

Lindsay be removed to Kilmarnock parish or not?"

The argument for it was, '' He has a large family, and this living is twice as good ashis own."

'The argument against it was, "The people are resolved not to hear him, and will leave the kirk if he comes."

If then the real point in view had been, as their law directs, " the greater good of the Church," instead of taking up five hours, the debate might have been determined in five minutes.

On Monday and Tuesday I spoke to the members of

WESLEY'S JOURNAL

June 1764 the society severally.

Thursday, 31. I rode to Dundee, and, about half an hour after six, preached on the side of a meadow near the town.

Poor and rich attended.

Indeed, there is seldom fear of wanting a congregation in Scotland.

But the misfortune is, they know everything: so they learn nothing.

At Inverness Thur. June 7.—I rode over to Sir Archibald Grant's, twelve computed miles from Aberdeen.

It is surprising to see how the country between is improved even within these three years.

On every side the wild, dreary moors are ploughed up, and covered with rising corn.

All the ground near Sir Archibald's, in particular, is as well cultivated as mostin England.

About seven I preached.

The kirk was pretty well filled, though upon short notice.

Certainly this is a nation " swift to hear, and slow to speak," though not ' slow to wrath."

Sun. 10o.—About eight we reached Inverness.

I could not preach abroad, because of the rain ; nor could I hear of any convenient room ; so that I was afraid my coming hither would be in vain, all ways seemed to be blocked up.

At ten I went to the kirk.

After service, Mr. Fraser, one of the ministers, invited us to dinner, and then to drink tea.

As we were drinking tea, he asked at what hour I would please to preach. I said,

* At half-hour past five."

The high kirk was filled in a very short time; and I have seldom found greater liberty of spirit.

The other minister came afterwards to our inn, and showed the most cordial affection.

Were it only for this day, I should not have regretted the riding an hundred miles.

Mon. 11.—A gentleman who lives three miles from the town invited me to his house, assuring me the

June 1764

LOVERS OF SERMONS

minister of his parish would be glad if I would make use of his kirk; but time would not permit, as I had appointed to be at Aberdeen on Wednesday.

All I could do was, to preach once more at Inverness.

I think the church was fuller now than before; and I could not but observe the remarkable behaviour of the whole congregation after service.

Neither man, woman, nor child spoke one word all the way down the main street.

Indeed the seriousness of the people is the less surprising, when it is considered, that, for at least an hundred years, this town has had such a succession of pious ministers as very few in Great Britain have known.

After Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen, I think Inverness is the largest town I have seen in Scotland.

The main streets are broad and straight; the houses mostly old, but not very bad, nor very good.

It stands in a pleasant and fruitful country, and has all things needful for life and godliness.

The people in general speak remarkably good English, and are of a friendly courteous behaviour.

A Sermon and Congregation to Order About eleven we took horse.

While we were dining at Nairn, the inn-keeper said, "Sir, the gentlemen of the town have read the little book you gave me on Saturday, and would be glad if you would please to give them a sermon."

Upon my consenting, the bell was immediately rung, and the congregation was quickly in the kirk.

O whata difference is there between South and North Britain!

Every one here at least loves to hear the word of God; and none takes it into his head to speak one uncivil word to any, for endeavouring to save their souls.

WESLEY'S JOURNAL

June 1764 Doubting whether Mr. Grant was come home, Mr.

Kershaw called at the Grange Green, near Forres, while I rode forward.

Mr. Grant soon called me back.

I have seldom seen a more agreeable place.

The house is an old castle, which stands on a little hill, with a delightful prospect all four ways; and the hospitable master has left nothing undone to make it still more agreeable.

He showed us all his improvements, which are very considerable in every branch of husbandry.

In his gardens many things were more forward than at Aberdeen, yea, or Newcastle.

And how is it, that none but one Highland gentleman has discovered that we have a tree in Britain, as easily raised as an ash; the wood of which is of full as fine a red as mahogany, namely, the laburnum ? I defy any mahogany to exceed the chairs which he has lately made of this.

Tues. 12._We rode through the pleasant and fertile county of Murray to Elgin.

I never suspected before that there was any such country as this near an hundred and fifty miles beyond Edinburgh; a country which is supposed to have generally six weeks more sunshine ina year than any part of Great Britain.

At Elgin are the ruins of a noble cathedral ; the largest that I remember to have seenin the kingdom.

Werode thence to the Spey, the most rapid river, next the Rhine, that I ever saw.

Though the water was not breast-high to our horses, they could very hardly keep their feet.

We dined at Keith, and rode on to Strathbogie, much improved by the linen-manufacture.

All the country from Fochabers to Strathbogie has little houses scattered up and down ; and not only the valleys, but the mountains themselves, are improved with the utmost care.

There want only more trees to make them more pleasant than most of the mountains in England.

The whole

Juwe 1764

NINETY-MILE RIDE

81] family at our inn, eleven or twelve in number, gladly joined with us in prayer at night.

Indeed, so they did at every inn where we lodged ; for among all the sins they have imported from England, the Scots have not yet learned, at least not the common people, to scoff at sacred things.

Wed. 13.—-We reached Aberdeen about one. Between six and seven, both this evening and the next I preached in the shell of the new house, and found it a time of much consolation.

Friday, 15. We set out early, and came to Dundee just as the boat was going off.

We designed to lodge at the house on the other side; but could not get either meat, drink, or good words ; so we were constrained to ride on to Cupar.

After travelling near ninety miles, I found no weariness at all; neither were our horses hurt.

Thou, O Lord, dost save both man and beast!

Wesley and a Scotch Communion Sat. 16.—We had a ready passage at Kinghorn, and in the evening I preached on the Calton Hill, to a very large congregation ; but a still larger assembled at seven on Sunday morning in the High School yard.

Being afterwards informed that the Lord's supper was to be administered in the west kirk, I knew not what to do; but at length I judged it best to embrace the opportunity, though I did not admire the manner of administration.

After the usual morning service, the minister enumerated several sorts of sinners, whom he forbade to approach.

Two long tables were set on the sides of one aisle, covered with table-cloths.

On each side of them a bench was placed for the people.

Each table held four or five and thirty.

Three ministers sat at the top, behind a cross-table ;

WESLEY'S JOURNAL

Jouy 1764 one of whom made a long exhortation, closed with the words of our Lord; and, then, breaking the bread, gave it to him who sat on each side him.

A piece of bread was then given to him who sat first on each of the four benches.

He broke off a little piece, and gave the bread to the next; so it went on, the deacons giving more when wanted.

A cup was then given to the first person on each bench, and so by one to another.

The minister continued his exhortation all the time they were receiving ; then four verses of the twenty-second

Psalm were sung, while new persons sat down at the tables.

A second minister then prayed, consecrated, and exhorted.

I was informed the service usually lasted till five in the evening.

How much more simple, as well as more solemn, is the service of the Church of England!

The evening congregation on the hill was far the largest I have seen in the kingdom; and the most deeply affected.

Many were in tears; more seemed cut to the heart.

Surely this time will not soon be forgotten.

Will it not appear in the annals of eternity?

Wesley's Likes and Dislikes Mon. July 2.—I gave a fair hearing to two of our brethren who had proved bankrupts. Such we immediately exclude from our society, unless it plainly appears not to be their own fault.

Both these were in a prosperous way till they fell into that wretched trade of bill-broking, wherein no man continues long without being wholly ruined.

By this means, not being sufficiently accurate in their accounts, they ran back without being sensible of it.

Yet it was quite clear that I R is an honest man; I would hope the same concerning the other.

Jury 1764

AN APPEAL TO GALLIO

Tues. 3 (Leeds).—I was reflecting on an odd circumstance, which I cannot account for.

I never relish a tune at first hearing, not till I have almost learned to sing it; and as I learn it more perfectly, I gradually lose my relish for it.

I observe something similar in poetry ; yea, in all the objects of imagination.

I seldom relish verses at first hearing; till I have heard them over and over, they give me no pleasure ; and they give me next to none when I have heard them a few times more, so as to be quite familiar.

Just so a face ora picture, which does not strike me at first, becomes more pleasing as I grow more acquainted with it; but only to a certain point: for when I am too much acquainted, it is no longer pleasing.

O, how imperfectly do we understand even the machine which we carry about us !

Thur. 5.—I had the comfort of leaving our brethren at Leeds united in peace and love.

About one I preached in a meadow at Wakefield.

At first the sun was inconvenient ; but it was not many minutes before that inconvenience was removed by the clouds coming between.

We had not only a larger, but a far more attentive, congregation than ever was seen here before.

One, indeed, a kind of gentleman, was walking away with great unconcern, when I spoke aloud.

'" Does Gallio care for none of these things?

But where will you go, with the wrath of God on your head, and the curse of God on your back?"

He stopped short, stood still, and went no farther till the sermon was ended.

Sat. 14.—-In the evening I preached at Liverpool; and the next day, Sunday, 15, the house was full enough.

Many of the rich and fashionable were there, and behaved with decency.

Indeed, I have always

WESLEY'S JOURNAL

Jury 1764 observed more courtesy and humanity at Liverpool than at most sea-ports in England.

She Thought, "I Laugh Prettily."

Mon. 16.—In the evening the house was fuller, if possible, than the night before.

I preached on the "one thing needful"; and the rich behaved as seriously as the poor.

Only one young gentlewoman (I heard) laughed much.

Poor thing!

Doubtless she thought, 'I laugh prettily."

Fri.

20.—At noon we made the same shift at Congleton as when I was here last.

I stood in the window, having put as many women as it would contain into the house.

'The rest, with the men, stood below in the meadow, and many of the townsmen wild enough.

I have scarce found such enlargement of heart since I came from Newcastle.

The brutes resisted long, but were at length overcome; not above five or six excepted.

Surely man shall not long have the upper hand; God will get unto himself the victory.

It rained all the day till seven in the evening, when I began preaching at Burslem.

Even the poor potters here are a more civilised people than the better sort (so called) at Congleton.

few stood with their hats on; but none spoke a word, or offered to make the least disturbance.

Sat. 21.—I rode to Bilbrook, near Wolverhampton, and preached between two and three.

Thence we went on to Madeley, an exceeding pleasant village, encompassed with trees and hills.

It was a great comfort to me to converse once more with a Methodist of the old stamp, denying himself, taking up his cross, and resolved to be "altogether a Christian."

Sun. 22.—At ten Mr. Fletcher read prayers, and I

Jury 1764.

WESLEY LOSES HIS WAY

preached on those words in the gospel, "I am the good Shepherd: the good Shepherd layeth down his life for the sheep."

The church would nothing near contain the congregation ; but a window near the pulpit being taken down, those who could not come in stood in the churchyard, and I believe all could hear.

The congregation, they said, used to be much smaller in the afternoon than in the morning ; but I could not discern the least difference, either in number or seriousness,

I found employment enough for the intermediate hours, in praying with various companies who hung about the house, insatiably hungering and thirsting after the good word.

An Exhausting Day Wed. 25.—I took horse a little after four, and, about two, preached in the market-place at Llanidloes, two or three and forty miles from Shrewsbury.

At three we rode forward through the mountains to the Fountainhead.

I was for lodging there; but Mr. B being quite unwilling, we mounted again about seven.

After having rode an hour, we found we were quite out of the way, having been wrong directed at setting out.

We were then told to ride over some grounds; but our path soon ended in the edge of a bog: however, we got through to a little house, where an honest man, instantly mounting his horse, galloped before us, up hill and down, till he brought us into a road, which, he said, led straight to Roes-fair.

We rode on, till another met us, and said, "No; this is the way to Aberystwith.

If you go to Roes-fair, you must turn back, and ride down to yonder bridge."

The master of a little house near the bridge then directed us to the next village, where we inquired again

WESLEY'S JOURNAL

Jury 1764 (it being past nine), and were once more set exactly wrong.

Having wandered an hour upon the mountains, through rocks, and bogs, and precipices, we, with abundance of difficulty, got back to the little house near the bridge.

It was in vain to think of rest there, it being full of drunken, roaring miners; besides that, there was but one bed in the house, and neither grass, nor hay, nor corn, to be had.

So we hired one of them to walk with us to Roes-fair, though he was miserably drunk, till, by falling all his length in a purling stream, he came tolerably to his senses.

Between eleven and twelve we came to the inn; but neither here could we get any hay.

When we were in bed, the good hostler and miner thought good to mount our beasts.

I believe it was not long before we rose that they put them into the stable.

But the mule was cut in several places, and my mare was bleeding like a pig, from a wound behind, two inches deep, made, it seemed, by a stroke with a pitchfork.

What to do we could not tell, till I remembered, I had a letter for one Mr. Nathaniel Williams, whom, upon inquiry, I found to live but a mile off.

We walked thither, and found 'an Israelite indeed," who gladly received both man and beast.

After I had got a little rest, Mr. W. desired me to give an exhortation to a few of his neighbours.

None was more struck therewith than one of his own family, who before cared for none of these things.

He sent a servant with us after dinner to Tregarron, from whence we had a plain road to Lampeter.

Fri. 27.—We rode through a lovely vale, and over pleasant and fruitful hills, toCarmarthen.

Thence, after a short bait, we went on to Pembroke, and came before I was expected; so I rested that night, having not

Jury 1764 THE MAYOR'S BEHAVIOUR

quite recovered my journey from Shrewsbury to Roesfair.

Sun. 29.—The minister of St. Mary's sent me word he was very willing I should preach in his church: but, before service began, the mayor sent to forbid it ; so he preached a very useful sermon himself.

The mayor's behaviour so disgusted many of the gentry, that they resolved to hear where they could; and accordingly flocked together in the evening from all parts of the town : and perhaps the taking up this cross may profit them more than my sermon in the church would have done.

Seven Hours on Horseback Mon. 30.—I rode to Haverfordwest: but no notice had been given, nor did any in the town know of my coming.

However, after a short time, I walked up toward the castle, and began singing an hymn.

The people presently ran together from all quarters.

They have curiosity at least; and some, I cannot doubt, were moved by a nobler principle.

Were zealous and active labourers here, what an harvest might there be, even in this corner of the land!

We returned through heavy rain to Pembroke.

Tues. 31.

We set out for Glamorganshire, and rode up and down steep and stony mountains, for about five hours, to Larn.

Having procured a pretty ready passage there, we went on to Lansteffan Ferry, where we were in some danger of being swallowed up in the mud before we could reach the water.

Between one and two we reached Kidwelly, having been more than seven hours on horseback, in which time we could have rode round by Carmarthen with more ease both to man and beast.

I have, therefore, taken my leave of these ferries ;

WESLEY'S JOURNAL

Nov. 1764 considering we save no time by crossing them (not even when we have a ready passage), and so have all the trouble, danger, and expense, clear gains.

I wonder that any man of common sense, who has once made the experiment, should ever ride from Pembroke to Swansea any other way than by Carmarthen.

The Ride from Pembroke to Swansea An honest man at Kidwelly told us there was no difficulty in riding the sands; so we rode on.

In ten minutes one overtook us who used to guide persons over them ; and it was well he did, or, in all probability, we had been swallowed up.

The whole sands are at least ten miles over, with many streams of quicksands intermixed.

But our guide was thoroughly acquainted with them, and with the road on the other side.

By his help, between five and six, we came well tired to Oxwych in Gower.

I had sent two persons on Sunday, that they might be there early on Monday, and so sent notice of my coming all over the country : but they came to Oxwych scarce a quarter of an hour before me; so that the poor people had no notice at all: nor was there any to take us in; the person with whom the preacher used to lodge being three miles out of town.

After I had stayed a while in the street (for there was no public-house), a poor woman gave me house room.

Having had nothing since breakfast, I was very willing to eat or drink; but she simply told me, she had nothing in the house but a dram of gin.

However, I afterwards procured a dish of tea at another house, and was much refreshed.

About seven I preached to a little company, and again in the morning.

They were all attention; so that even for the sake of this handful of people I did not regret my labour.

Sun. November 4.—I proposed to the leaders, the

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